What are the best squash strings on the market today? In this article I’ll do my very best to answer that question and also answer a few common questions about squash strings.
- What are the best squash strings?
- What are squash strings?
- Is it worth restringing a squash racket?
- What strings and tensions do pro squash players use?
- What tension should I string my squash racket?
- What is the factory string tension of my squash racket?
- How much does it cost to restring a squash racket?
What Are the Best Squash Strings?
I’ll start with a rundown here of some squash strings that I personally liked. To be honest I like a lot of different squash strings so don’t be afraid to experiment, and don’t be afraid to ask your local stringer their thoughts about what will suit your game and/or what they have in stock!
Tecnifibre X-One Biphase
Pure Power
Image via qss-squash.nl
Product Info
Price: $20
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Search:I tried this Tecnifibre string about a year ago and thought it was probably the most powerful string I’d ever used. I tested at a tension of 25 pounds. This also had the benefit of improving my control, once I learned to harness it with a shorter backswing. These are 18 gauge / 1.18 mm (more on string gauges later in the article) and the current version of these are an orange color, although a prior version came in red.
Ashaway SuperNick ZX Micro
Balanced Attack
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Price: $12.75
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Search:These, like other Ashaway strings, have a little more grit to them, which gives you the ability to put a bit of “cut” or spin on your shots. These strings felt maybe a touch less powerful than the X-One Biphase, but a little bit more control out of the box. These are a little thinner (and thus a bit less durable) at 18 gauge / 1.15 mm.
Tecnifibre DYNAMIX VP
Quality and Durability
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Search:This one’s another good blend of power and control that also has good durability. This comes in three different sizes and I’d recommend the middle size, which is 17 gauge / 1.20 mm. Currently Tecnifibre’s top-of-the-line rackets are factory strung with this brand of string, except they use the slightly thicker “17L” / 1.25 mm version. Personally I think if you’re going to restring it’s worth sizing down to the 1.20 mm.
Ashaway SuperNick XL
Budget Pick
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Price: $12
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Search:Gonna be honest, I haven’t used this since college but it was NICE 👌 back in the day. I remember it being soft and having good grit. The knock on this today is it’s lacking in feel and crispness compared to some newer strings. At 1.25mm (17 gauge) it’s a bit thicker and more durable. I put it on the list because it’s a budget pick but still a classic.
Tecnifibre 305
Pro Favorite
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Price: $16
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Search:The deal with this one is it’s used by a whopping number of pro players. If you watch pro squash you’ll see this telltale green string in lots of rackets. Apparently the top players feel this string really gives them a lot of “bite” — another euphemism for imparting spin on the ball. The knock on these is they’re not considered very durable. I tried these strings once a few years ago and liked them, but the strings lasted me about 5 months before breaking on an off-center hit. I’m not a particularly hard hitter so that was a pretty short outing for me as far as strings go.
Python Atlas Deluxe
Reel Steal
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Price: $80
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Search:For stringing my own rackets at home (I have a small stringing machine), I bought myself a reel of Python Atlas Deluxe 18 gauge. This is only available at Squash Galaxy in the US. The feel is decent and the durabilty has been good. It’s an absolute steal at just $80 for the reel.
What Are Squash Strings?
Squash strings are an under-emphasized piece of squash equipment. Most people spend tons of time and money deciding on a squash racket, forgetting that it’s the squash strings that actually make contact with the ball.
And I must admit, I’ve been that guy on occasion. Even to this day, I spend more time thinking about the weight and balance of my squash racket than I do about my squash strings. But both are important and really they should be given equal consideration.
Factory Strings
When you buy a squash racket, the strings it comes with are called the factory strings.
They are often mediocre.
But if you think about it, it’s understandable.
Consider it from the perspective of the racket manufacturers. They want to sell products for the masses. And the masses typically want just a durable, everyday string. They don’t want or need to spend a ton of extra money on high end strings.
When it comes to factory strings, manufacturers tend to prioritize two things: durability and price. They want people to be able to use the racket right out of the box, but without adding too much to the cost of the racket. The strings also need to last a while, or racket buyers will be upset.
Performance Squash Strings
While factory strings emphasize durability and affordability, premium squash strings place the focus squarely on performance. This means you can often improve both power AND control by upgrading your squash strings.
Premium strings are made of higher quality materials and more modern manufacturing techniques. A nice new set of strings can make your power shots feel more crisp while simultaneously giving you better feel on your touch shots.
Performance strings also tend to be a little thinner. A thinner string is a little faster through the air (more power) and also gives your shots more bite (more control).
What’s the downside? For one, the cost. Premium strings tend to be about ten dollars more expensive (per racket restring) than your basic affordable string. For another, the durability. In part that’s because they tend to be thinner, which makes them more susceptible to breakage.
Just a quick note to say that some rackets do come from the factory with premium strings included. For example, Tecnifibre’s top-end Airshaft rackets come prestrung with Tecnifibre Dynamix VP (albeit the thickest 1.25mm version of that string). So do a little research on what strings are currently in your racket before proceeding.
Squash String Brands
Here are all the brands of squash string I’ve posted so far on Squash Source:
- Ashaway
- Dunlop
- Eye
- Gamma
- Harrow
- Head
- Karakal
- Luxilon
- Mantis
- Oliver
- Prince
- RAB
- Salming
- Solinco
- Tecnifibre
- Unsquashable
- Wilson
Typical String Gauges
String gauge is a measure of thickness — and higher the number, the thinner the string. Most squash strings are either 17 or 18 gauge. Occasionally you’ll see something outside that range.
Sometimes string thicknesses are listed in millimeters rather than gauges. In that case, the higher the number the thicker the string. Roughly, squash strings are between 1.25 mm thick and 1.10 mm thin.
Style | Gauge | Range (mm) |
---|---|---|
Thicker | 17 | 1.16 – 1.24 mm |
Thinner | 18 | 1.06 – 1.16 mm |
Is It Worth Restringing a Squash Racket?
So when should you restring a squash racket?
Obviously, if your string breaks, you need to restring your squash racket in order to be able to play. But outside of that, restringing offers many angles for improving the power and control of your squash racket.
Better Strings
As mentioned earlier, it is probably NOT worth restringing your racket if your main goal is durability. The factory strings are already geared towards durability.
But if you’re looking to to improve the feel of your strings and potentially gain a little power or control (or both), you might consider restringing the racket with a premium string.
Better Tension
When you receive a racket from the factory, you never know what tension it’ll be. I find the factory tensions are often quite high, especially for some brands more than others.
When you restring your racket, you get to control the tension to your liking. If you’re not sure where to start, there’s usually a recommended tension range printed on the racket somewhere. The String Doctor, a professional stringer, also has a spreadsheet of recommended tensions at this link. A general rule of thumb seems to be 25 pounds for an Even feel that balances power and control.
Generally, dropping the tension a couple pounds will add power and make the racket a bit more forgiving, at the expense of some precision. So if you’re a beginner, you might want to drop a couple pounds to start with.
Feel free to experiment, just remember to take note of whatever string and tension you used on your racket, so that you can remember what settings worked and what didn’t.
Better Consistency
When a squash racket is strung at the factory, it’s done by a human, not a machine. And the factory are turning out lots of rackets, so they tend to string rackets as quickly as possible. This means they are often applying tension on up to four strings at once, as opposed to tensioning each string one at a time.
This can result in inconsistency even with the string bed of one single racket. In other words depending on where you hit the strings, the tension may be different.
If you get your racket restrung by a good stringer, they will take their time and produce a more consistent outcome.
In addition, stringers have the knowhow to string multiple rackets to the same specification. Each racket that comes out of the factory can have slight variations in weight and balance, even for the same frame. A professional stringer can not only string a racket consistently within a single string job, but also string multiple rackets consistently across all the rackets, even if the frames themselves are not 100% identical. This is a more advanced topic but it’s definitely something pro players do to get an edge – they will have multiple frames strung and ‘matched’ before going to a tournament so that they have full confidence in all the rackets in their bag.
What Tension/Strings Do Squash Pros Use?
Sometimes I come across a reference online for how pros string their rackets. As I find those, I’ll put the info here. Just because a pro likes a certain setup doesn’t mean you will, so make sure to experiment to find your own personal preferences.
If you have a tip, please let me know in the comments.
Player | String | Tension | Source |
---|---|---|---|
Declan James | Dunlop Silk | 28.5 lbs | → |
Nick Matthew | Ashaway Powernick 18 | 28 lbs | → |
Mohamed El Shorbagy | Tecnifibre Dynamix VP | 26 lbs | → |
Laura Massaro | RAB Sensor Fibre | 29 lbs | → |
Patrick Rooney | Ashaway Ultranick | 23 lbs | → |
Baptiste Masotti | Tecnifibre 305 | 11 kg (24.25 lbs) | → |
Gregoire Marche | Tecnifibre 305 | 10 kg mains and 9 kg crosses | → |
Fares Dessouky | Tecnifibre 305 | 12 kg mains and 11 kg crosses | → |
Nicolas Mueller | Wilson Comfort | 22 lbs mains and 20 lbs crosses | → |
Joel Makin | Karakal Hot Zone | 24 lbs | → |
Diego Elias | Ashaway Ultranick | 24 lbs | → |
Marwan El Shorbagy | Tecnifibre 305 1.2mm | 11 kg (24.25 lbs) | → |
James Willstrop | Unsquashable Tour Tec Pro 1.18 | 26 lbs | → |
Mohamed Abouelghar | Tecnifibre 305 1.20 | 26 lbs | → |
Greg Lobban | Karakal Evo Pro 1.15 | 24 lbs | → |
I’m actually surprised how low the tensions are for the pros in the chart above. I always thought I like my rackets on the low side but looking at some of the pro choices above, I’m starting to wonder if I’m more mainstream.
What Tension Should String My Squash Racket?
I personally have been doing my rackets at 25 or 26 pounds. These days I string my own rackets on a drop weight stringing machine I bought for myself. That kind of machine isn’t as accurate as a modern electronic machine so I think my rackets might end up a little lower than what I just mentioned.
My Drop Weight Stringing Machine
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Search:The way this type of machine works is there’s a large metal piece on the end of a rod and you slide it up and down the rod to set the tension, then you wind the string and tip the rod over to apply tension using gravity. This also has a “floating clamp” mechanism that I won’t try and explain here but is a little finicky. Overall though, this baby gets the job done.
An Electronic Stringing Machine
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Search:An electronic machine just pulls the string for you to the correct tension and it’s much more accurate than a drop weight system. The pictured machine also has a fixed clamp system, which is more accurate than a floating clamp style.
My Advice
If you aren’t too sure what string or tension to use, my advice is: don’t worry about it. Just pick something and try it out. The most important thing is to write down the details of how you got it strung, so that if you liked it, you can get it done the same way again, and if you didn’t like it, you can fiddle with the tension or the string next time around. Just commit yourself to learning a little about strings as you go.
String Tension Explained
To get more power, string at a lower tension. A string under low tension bends more easily, which sends the ball launching off your strings. Conversely, higher tension gives you a more controlled hit.
The reason is, well, think about it like a trampoline — if it bends easily, it will launch you higher (more power), but the bounce will be more difficult for you to control. Conversely, a stiff trampoline won’t bounce you as high, but it’ll be easier to control your bounces.
String Gauge Explained
Thinner string bends more easily, and that gives you a bit of a power boost. In addition, the thinner the string, the more it will “bite” into the ball on contact, allowing you to put more spin on your shots. Even better, thinner string is a bit lighter, which makes your racket faster through the air, enabling more power and deception on your shots.
So if thinner strings have all these benefits, why not always use the thinnest string available? The reason is that thinner strings are more prone to breakage, which can be expensive and/or annoying to replace.
What Is the Factory String Tension of My Squash Racket?
I get this question frequently so it gets its own answer. Sometimes people will buy a racket and really like the factory setup. Eventually the strings break and they want to duplicate what they had before.
Here’s the thing: it’s really difficult to know what the factory tension was. If you were to buy multiple copies of the same racket, you would often get different string tensions. This is because, as mentioned earlier in the article, factory string jobs are done as cheaply (quickly) as possible without necessarily receiving the attention to detail that a professional restringer would provide.
On top of that, the rackets spend weeks traveling around the world on container ships, where they are exposed to major temperature fluctuations. It’s just one more thing that makes it impossible to say what your factory tension is.
That said: factory string jobs are usually pretty tight. The racket brands want all the strings to be lined up nice and neatly so it looks good in the shop. So if you like your factory string job, you may want to try getting your racket strung at a higher tension like 27 or 28 pounds.
How Much Does It Cost to Restring a Squash Racket?
It usually costs between $25 – $40 to restring a squash racket. A premium string will probably cost around ten dollars more than a budget string.
Here are some professional stringers who have left comments on Squash Source. I might have missed some but will add to this list over time.
You can also get your racket restrung at most clubs or via the online squash retailers.
Lawrence says
()
Hey guys (JB?/Tjeerd?anybody?)
Has anybody tried putting in a thin tennis string into their squash racket?
I’m contemplating stringing my squash racket with the Ashaway Crossfire 18g 1.10 string ?……….
Would appreciate some feedback and advice.
Thanks guys!
Tjeerd says
()
Hi Lawrence,
Yes, I have. I’ve tried the Polyfibre Poly Hightect 1.10, which is a thin and reasonably soft polyester tennis string. It was quite playable, specially on hot summer days or on warm, “quick” courts. But, compared to normal squash strings, the Poly Hightec is a very stiff string and due to this stiffness, it put me on the edge of an tennis arm injury. So, not recommended for players with similar problems.
As far as I can see, the Ashaway Crossfire is a aramid string, and aramid is even more rigid than polyester. It is used in tennis for the main strings, only for durability by chronic string breakers. I highly doubt if there are any tennis players that are playing with a full aramid stringbed. It is typically used in a hybrid setup, with a softer string for crosses.
So, if you are planning to try a fullbed aramid string in your squash racket, I would strongly advise against it. You will probably end up with a super stiff, unplayable stringbed that lacks power.
However, I am curious: what would you like to achieve with it? 🙂
Lawrence says
()
Hi Tjeerd
I had typed a response but it disappeared! (Pierre?)….
Anyway …Tjeerd I was desperate! I could not get the right string set-up for an Ion Cannon that I have despite trying all sorts of strings (305, 305+, DNAMX, X-One, Powernick, ZX, polys and monos……argh……)….. so I saw a packet of Crossfire at my stringer’s and was sorely tempted…….😜
Anyway I will heed your advice and save my arm!
Thanks!
Pierre says
()
Sorry bout that – I managed to break the site yesterday
Criss cross says
()
Hi,
If you are having troubles getting a string bed in your racket that is as nice for you as the factory string, unlucky. The factory string setup is very random and done with haste in mind. Even for rackets that come with premium string.
However, here are some notes for you:
The ion cannon, along with all black Knights are incredibly stiff rackets, which for squash players who like the feeling of ‘dwell time’ on their shots; it makes the correct stringing method even more essential.
Much like older head rackets and Harrow rackets: tecnifibre string does not work well easily.
Consider supernick or even standard prince synthetic gut with duraflex (the squash version).
The stiffer the squash racket, the more essential it is to optimise the string bed elasticity overall.
Try this:
when clamping, pull the length clamp a little bit more than usual, and then effectively squash in the side clamps a little, as if to stretch/squash the frame by a few mm.
If using an electronic machine, turn constant pull OFF.
String in one-piece and For your mains, do not go higher that 26lbs.
For you crosses drop 2-3lbs.
Also, if the mains end and the bottom and not the top, you should catagorically string in an ‘around the world pattern’s to enable the crosses to be strung top-to-bottom.
When finished and tied-off, let off the locking clamps at the top/bottom before the sides, and do do use the racket for 12hours.
If you really want tecnifibre, add the following.
prestretch 20% and keep constant pull OFF.
At the final mains and start/end cross, lower the tension by about 12-15% (mains=26 final mains=23).
In the ion cannon, I would personally not do mains higher than 25 and absolutely never use constant pull or a drop-weight machine.
Troy says
()
Hi Pierre (and other experienced players),
This is a bit more of a left-field question, but I’m curious if you’ve ever thought if string colour can alter an opponent’s ability to read your shot (e.g. a drop shot when they’re stuck behind you at the “T”)?
For example, white strings blend in with the white background of a conventional court (racquet angle just prior to the hit may be harder to judge).
Cheers
JB says
()
Troy interesting thought. I would tend to go with black string so the ball blends in and does not stand out. Kind of hides the ball on the racquet unless of course you are using the white ball on a glass court.
Owen says
()
Squash Source Community,
I’m moving to Colorado this summer and wondered if anybody out there had any advice for how you adjust your string tension for playing at altitude with the altitude ball. Currently I string my rackets at 26lbs with the Ashaway Ultranick 18s.
Thanks!
Paul Davey says
()
Hi everyone,
Has anyone else noticed that straight after restringing, the ball seems to get coated with some kind of silicon material causing the ball to skid off the floor at a low angle.
Strings: Tecnifibre 305 / DNAMX / X-One BiPhase 1.18.
I’m new to restringing and wondering if the strings are supplied with this silicon-like coating to aid stringing but then require a thorough clean off on completion? I’d like to have a go at the stenciling but very much doubt paint will stick onto a silicon coated string!
Incidentally my favourite string is the DNAMX.
Any views on this issue?
Thanks,
Paul.
Aj says
()
I tried the ashaway zx and for me it was horrible. I strung it at 28lbs but there was no ping, and just a complete dull feel when I hit the ball. I found that it didn’t even give me any extra control. The restringer has recommend I try prokennex iq core 1.15m. I’ve had it put in the racket but was wondering if anyone had tried it and what there thoughts were on it?
Nawar says
()
Hi Aj,
I am using the Ashaway ZX supernick 1.25 mm string, one of the best strings i ever tried, it’s been a month am using it and am really satisfied…Maximum power & control, impressive spin potential and precision.
for reference :
Racket String tension 28 lbs
Head Graphene Cyano 120 XT
JB says
()
A is 28.5 string tension on a drop weight.
Paul Davey says
()
Hi,
ex-factory is ‘A’
Stringer result when asked to do 23lbs : ‘C’ (higher by 3 semi-tones).
I don’t think you can just say 28.5 is an ‘A’ without quoting the string diameter. So I’d like to know the tension on a 1.18mm (X-One) that produces an ‘A’ cos that would seem to be my target.
If I knew what a semi-tone equated to in terms of lbs then I could just work it back to an A from 23 (C)… (C-B-Bb-A).
Thanks for your replies,
Paul.
Tjeerd says
()
Hi Paul,
Nylon strings (eg. Tecnifibre 305) will produce a different tone compared by Zyex strings (eg. Ashaway PN) with the same diameter when pulled at equal tensions. Things become even more complex, because most strings are made from a variety of materials.
So, I think the exact type of string should be matched when comparing string tensions by acoustics. 🙂
Paul Davey says
()
Hi,
My Tecnifibre Carboflex 125 Basaltex Squash Racket (2014/5 lime green) comes with a great string tension when new but having difficulty getting a restringer to replicate the ex-factory tension.
The tension range states 20-30 lbs and to start with my stringer strung a Tecnifibre X-One (red string) at 26lbs which clearly made a much higher tone than my spare (brand new). When string broke, we went for 23lbs which surprised us both as it is still 2 tones higher than ex-factory.
You might all be saying – just play with it at 23 then and get on with your life! But the ex-factory strings seem to have more power, a bigger sweet spot while somehow maintaining touch… seems impossible but that’s why I love them.
Personally I wish they put the factory tension on them, so we have a guideline. I know people will say they have lost some of their tension while sitting in the factory/shop but I think Tecnifibre have worked out that a low tension happens to work particularly well on this racket.
Couple of questions:
1. Has anyone else out there embarked on the same quest (matching ex-factory string tension – particularly for my racket)?
2. I notice that people lower the cross string tension by a coupe of lbs. Do you think that would be done to an ex-factory racket, or this just a personal thing?
I’m a musician and engineer(!) and I note that pinging an ex-factory string is a ‘A’ and my stringer produced a 23lb ‘C’. I wonder if there is a rough guide that could estimate x semi-tones = y lbs….now I’m sure someone will tell me to get a life!
Thanks a lot.
Paul.
Bernard says
()
I know that M Elshorbagy strings his carboflex at 26 pounds – he seems to do okay!
Paul Davey says
()
Yes but as I mentioned 26lbs really doesn’t play well for me…
If it did, I wouldn’t be trying to match the ex-factory tension.
I was hoping someone might just know what it was. I can tell you it’s lower than 23lbs which was a surprise to me. I’m stringing at 21 next time (see Tjeerd’s answer). I’m also pinging an email off to technifibre to see what they say.
All the best and enjoy your squash!
Paul.
Tjeerd says
()
Hi Paul,
Just forget the tensions printed on the frame: they are mainly there as a guideline and for warranty.
The quality of factory string jobs is usually not very well. Time is money and it is not uncommon that during factory stringing, strings are double or even tripple pulled (2 or 3 strings are pulled at once). In my experience, factory string jobs are far from consistant and that they indeed vary between the ranges printed on the frame. 🙂
You may want to try the “RacquetTune” app (available for Andriod and IPhone): this app uses sound to “guess” the string tension, depending on some more variables like string type(!!) and gauge.
But what you are actually are looking for, is a way to meassure the stringbed stiffness. There are special devices for this on the market (Stringlab). You could use such a device to meassure the stringbed that you like, and work your way towards this stringbed stiffness when you have to restring your racket.
Concrete answers to your questions:
1) Yes, I have; see above. 🙂
2) This is done for a couple of reasons. The main reason is that the cross strings are shorter than the main strings, but you want to give the cross strings about the same amount of “flexibility” as the main strings. In other words: to let a short string produce the same tone as a long string, you have to give the shorter string less tension. (or vice-versa)
Don’t be affraid to lower the tensions even further to get the stringbed stiffness you like the most. Bear in mind that stringtype and gauge are essential variables for this, and that a fresh stringjob will have to settle and will loosen up after it is used a few times.
(or example: depending on the racket, for cross-strings I will go as low as 9.5 kg (+/- 21 lbs) with multifilament strings en even drop to 9 kg (+/- 20 lbs) when using poly’s)
Paul Davey says
()
Hi Tjeerd,
This is a comprehensive and valuable reply. I’m very keen to get the tension right and your explanation of cross strings makes perfect sense. I’m 90% happy with 23lbs but when I swap to an ex-factory strung tension and it is just that bit more powerful with less vibration… my length shots get more reliable and punches to the back of the court benefit from a slightly bigger sweet spot… so it means a lot to me to get it right.
I’m off to download that app – I’m nearly there with this.
Thanks again for a great reply.
Paul.
Paul Davey says
()
Just to revisit this one…
The answer is 25 lbs with a lockout machine. I’ve recently bought a machine, calibrated it and it fires the brake at 25lbs… so I guess you want to subtract 2-3 lbs for constant tension machine. I’m doing the crosses 2lbs down too and it plays identically to an ex-factory racquet. Got there in the end.
Cheers,
Paul.
Paul Davey says
()
Scrap the above comment – wrong again! Tension was lost as it settled in. I’m now pre-tensioning the string and doing it at 26lbs lockout which seems to hit the spot for me. After a week playing, it now has exactly the same tone as the ex-factory.
Here ends the quest for me.
Troy says
()
Hello Paul,
Just to verify, you’re pre-tension the strings and subsequently stringing the racquet at 26 lb for the mains and 24 lb for the crosses (lockout)?
Cheers,
Troy
P.S Even though I have a different teardrop shaped racquet I think I’ll do the same.
Simon Dottridge says
()
Your best bet is to buy a stringmeter https://www.amazon.com/Unique-Sports-Tourna-Stringmeter/dp/B003B92EUG and test the tension and then compare it to the newly strung tension and adjust the tension you ask for accordingly.
JB says
()
Dnamx it is better then the + and doesn’t break as often….great string!
Sorry Lawrence did get your question or missed it in my email…anyway tried the 17 for a bit good but something was missing so I bumped one racquet back up to 27 and left the other at 17 and well after a bit gravitated back to the 27 just better touch feel and control for me in the SB 125 xenon…Enjoy the Game!
zari says
()
Hi all!
i have a question regarding the new string to buy i am using prince pro beast 750(2014) and recently my company fitted string broke i changed that to technifiber 305+ guage 17/1.20mm (black) but it lasted only a single day however i really loved that.I have heard that wide pattern in this model causes easy string brake is that correct ? I prefer power alot with above average control so kindly suggest me best durable string that have best power rating and good life.
Thankyou
Oliver Bush says
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I used Technifibre for probably the last 15 years, but recently they had run out, so I think I put Ashaway Supernick in. I normally play with 2 racquets and alternate, but one of my Carboflex broke, and the Wilsons I bought to replace don’t feel great (they were on the cheap end of the spectrum so no surprise really) so I have been playing with 1 racquet for about 5 months. I typically expect 1 restring per month (about 12 – 15 matches), since I put the Ashaway in 4 months back I have not needed to restring. I also find the power I am getting is controlled and better than usual. I hit a squash ball very hard (too hard maybe but self control and habit issues perhaps). I don’t see myself returning to Technifibre because I would rather not pay 20 quid a month when it seems the Ashaway is on track for 40 quid per year, and seems to perform better. I am now questioning my loyalty to my old string, I mean I love the lumo green colour, but I can handle a red string that performs, if anything, better and has relative durability in an entirely different league. My only hope is I didn’t just get one lucky magic string! If your string only lasts a day though that possibly points to a crack in the frame or grommets – or truly herculean ball striking. Some guy in Wimbledon once had no technifibre so he put some general stock string in mine and my opponents racquets while we had a coffee over the road. When we went to play the string in mine went in the warm up, ball right through the racquet. Good strings is good sense I guess.
JB says
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Lawrence went through a few more racquets really intrigued with the new thin body racquets so tried a few Eye racquets found their weights were just all over the place for the same racquet one of the 115 was 142 the other 160 same string same grip…back to the Head Slimbody for reference each weighs in at 154. So to answer your question on tension I am still trying to figure that out. One is factory strung just received, the new adaptive string option one, figured I would try it or have the option to try it when I need to restring it and the other is the green one strung at 17. I checked the tension bed of the factory one and the string bed tension is, mains 27 crosses 25. The other racquet I strung at 17 string bed tension is mains 24 crosses 21. The factory one has more control then the 17 lb one which has more power. The factory one a little more consistency, repeatability. So which one won more games….with players I can over power the 17 lb strung one worked well good enough for touch and plenty of power to keep the pace high to keep them off their game but playing the top club player I found the higher tension racquet gave me just better control to place the ball more accurately to make him run more and give me a better chance and win more rallies. So as I said earlier still trying to figure it out. I am going to step the green up from 17 to 20 and see if it gives me the control AND power for both or might just up it to the factory numbers and play there. Any suggestion or thoughts are welcome. Enjoy the game!
Lawrence says
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Thanks for the update JB! Hope the 17 to 20 works out, let us know! I’ve been experimenting with the Dnamx 1.15 and TF 305 1.1, and I find that the Dnamx have more power, yet have a lot of control too.
Do you have the same experience? And how do you think the new Ashaway ZX would compare to the Dnamx? I put the ZX on my Ramy Pro Warrior and found that the strings were lively and have the ‘pop’, yet strangely felt it was ‘dull’/’soft’…. I always thought Ashaway strings have the ‘crispy’ feel whilst TF strings have the ‘soft’ feel…. Or is the other way around? Appreciate your thoughts.
Haha like you, I am on a never ending quest to find the perfect set-up, and for the perfect racket!
Enjoy the game!
JB says
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Lawrence I found the same for ZX very soft and powerful not the control I was looking for and at that time I was dropping tensions from 25 lbs down and the string strung at 25 or less never settled in always out of line especially after you put spin on the ball. Some say just leave it it doesn’t mater I look at it if it isn’t straight then the tension is higher then what it started. How can it be consistent, though the ball temp chances also so probably the same thing……probably just a in the head thing? I would straighten them after a rally and it just took me out of the zone to much. It just doesn’t snap back in place. The 305, 305+ and Dnamx all the way down to 16 snaps back in place ready for the next hit. So I went back up to 27 and well with Dnamx plenty of power and my control has gone up a notch so I think I will do the second or first racquet at 25 to compare them. Kind of starting the process over again. Or should I try 29….whichever way the Dnamx really is nice. Enjoy the game.
JB says
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Lawrence I have been playing it with Tecnifibre Dnamx at 17 and really enjoy it. Smooth powerful larger sweet spot and control works for me. Enjoy the game!
Michel Goulche says
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Thank you Thomas,
As i was in a rush to have my rackets restring i choose to use the string they have available at the squash club i was playing during vacations…So i had the Tecnifibre 305 ( green ) at 9.5 Kg / 10,5 Kg. So pretty low tension and i found it very good but took me time to adjust until the string “break in” and quite easy on my shoulder. About the type of the machine, pretty sure it was not an electronic one.
Carlos Porras says
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Dear friends of Squash Source, I need some advices about what kind of strings I could put in my Eye X.Lite 120 Control. The original strings are so good when you hit the ball with power to the back of the court, but a think that the feeling when I try to make control shots could be better with other strings. I´m doubting between the X.Tech of Eye 1.20 (I don´t know if it´s the strings which Eye uses to prestrung their rackets), the Ashaway SuperNick 1.25 or the Tecnifibre 305 1.20. I don´t want to loose this power, but a little bit of more control could be awesome. Thank you all!!
JB says
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My son in law has the exact racquet and has one strung with 305+ the other 305 both at 27. He gets a bit more power from the 305+ so plays that a bit more….enjoy the game!
Thomas Selway Spencer says
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Hi, I am a squash racket re-stringer who within my team does about 50 rackets per week.
Seriously, do not take any manufacturers or one lone players opinion on ‘control’.
‘Control’ is a very subjective issue and what deems to be the qualities of control for one player is completely contradicted by another, because of what it feels like for THEM.
In general though through 3 years of trying to get an explanation to my customers; ASHAWAY feel/control is based on pure hitting comfort and a sense of firm and immediate elasticity when you strike the ball.
Technifibre’s sense of feel/control comes from the ball feeling like it stays on the racket longer and the feedback is cushioned (some call this ‘dwell time’).
Some say it is dull and unexpressive, but as metioned before, it is subjective – but if you understand what I am trying to convey, you should have a sense of the qualities on ‘control’ between the two manufacturers and which one clicks with you.
Personally, for your racket, if you liked the factory string,
I would do tecnifibre 305 1.2 in a ONE-PIECE setup (eye rackets only really allow this due to the large grommet holes being limited)
try the mains at 26.5 and the crosses at 24.5.
You will have a similar power feel on the string bed as the factory strings but with the dwell-based control that 305 offers.
Rod Foster says
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Had the opportunity to try out some gut string on the prince powerbite 750 PB
i liked the grip of the ball but man…it was really tough to control the ball
added a lot of power …it was strung @26 lbs …about right where i like it…right in the 26-28 range
some drops were pretty effective due to the good grip from the strings…but it would also send balls back out deep that would normally hug tight and drop….i stopped playing w/ it after 4 games and found i had a much better time w/ the ashaway ultranick 17 xl (my string of choice)
JB says
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It was to powerful for me I used the 305 strung one the most. Sold two one to yourself the 305+ and supposedly the 305 is sold awaiting payment and went to the Head 120 slimbody! Incredible control racquet! Enjoy the game!
JB says
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Tension is a trial and error effort. I would start with 25 if you find you need more power 24 more control 26 and continue down that road….Ashor strings at 25 or so Mathew up at 28-29 and Gualtier 14-16 so it just comes down to your type of game and timing on the ball…the lower the tension the easier it is on the body….Enjoy the game!
Tjeerd Mäkel says
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Here’s my 2 cents about squash strings. 😉
Just about a year ago, I started to string my own rackets. Since then, I’ve tried some – not very obvious – string setups. If you take some time to look around and you are in for an experiment, you can find some good strings without paying top prices. Some of my favorites:
Dunlop Silk 1.18mm (black)
Dunlop does not have a great name for the quality of their squash strings, but this is a string I would highly recommend. It’s a multifilament string, with the filaments twisted and bonded with PU. It will give you fantastic power, with great comfort and touch. The ball really “pops” of the strings and meanwhile is easy on the arm. Allthough the coating is quite smooth and Dunlop rates the “ball grip” for this string 7/10, you’ll be able to really cut the ball and go fo those flaming nickshots. Very lively string with little string movement. The durability for a string of this gauge, is just fine. Have strung several rackets at the club with this string and got only positive feedback. I’ve seen 200m reels for just about 100 EURO, so if you are searching for a somewhat affordable top quality string, this one is definitely worth trying.
Kirschbaum Touch Multifibre 1.15mm (natural)
In terms of playing characteristics , this is an absolute top string. Like the Dunlop Silk, this is a multifilament string with the filaments twisted and bonded with a PU resign. During stringing, this string felt more stiff and the outer coating is just a little rough. This gives you great ball-bite. Great power and is very, very easy on the arm. The big downside of this string is the price (just under 100 EURO for a 110m reel) and the durability; I’ve got an avarage of 6-7 matches before it broke, mostly in the top of the racket. But if you can afford it, go for it…
Polyfibre Ply Hightec 1.10mm (yellow)
If you have arm or wrist problems, please skip this string. Because yes, this is a tennis string, and yes, it’s a polyester monofilament. But due to the thin gauge and when strung at a 5% – 7% lower tension, it actually feels quite elastic and comfortable. Great power, great touch and a very unique “lively” feel. The string looks desceptively smooth, but nevertheless gives good grip on the ball. Unbeatable in durability, but with one (big) downside: because it’s a poly, it will become “dead” after about 2-3 months of of play (4 hours a week) and needs to be replaced. But if you string your own rackets (just under 60 EURO for a 200m reel) and want to try something completely different, it’s worth a try.
Pro’s Pro Dura Ace 1.20mm (natural / yellow)
If you are on a budget, this string is for you. IMHO, for the price of under 25 EURO for a 110m reel, this string cannot be beaten. It’s a prestretched multifilament string with 2 outer layers of braided fibers. These braided fibers give the string its rough surface, resulting in great grip on the ball. This string is very elastic and is very comfortable and easy on the arm. Good touch, good power, great durability. One to have always in stock.
JB says
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There’d, great information. Love to hear others experiences. I have tried the Dura Ace and agree it’s a great bang for the buck string. It is to bad it s not made in an 18g 1.10. I will heed your advice and give a few of your others a try also. Thank you
michel goulche says
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Very interested with the Kirschbaum strings since i have lot of shoulder pain. I currently use a harrow vapor and i wondering if it can be a good mix with the Kirschbaum. What tension will you recommend for good control / power balance ?
I was using 305+ with a tecnifibre 125S before and it was less painful for my shoulder, but i really love the Vapor much more so i need to find a string that will temperate this little fury !!!
Tjeerd Mäkel says
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Hard to tell, Michel, string tensions on themselves won’t help you that much.
What you actually should do, is to measure the stringbed stiffness (DT-value) of your beloved Tecnifibre 125S / 305+ combination and try to reproduce this on your Harrow Vapor. This is not an easy job: DT value is somewhat determined by the combination of string area, number of mains / crosses, string type, string gauge and string tension(s). Actually, it’s quite difficult to produce constant stringbed stiffness on identical rackets, with identical strings, even if the stringjob is done by the same person on the same stringing machine every time again.
For example: a Karakal BX-130 racket strung with Dunlop Silk – with 11 kg. for the mains / 10 kg. for the crosses – gave me a nice, comfortable and “springy” stringbed. To reproduce somewhat the same feeling on a Oliver Blizz Z5 with the same string, I ended up with 10 kg. for the mains and 9.5 kg. for the crosses. Attempts to reproduce this on a Oliver EP13, didn’t succeed for so far… 🙂
If you know the string tension of your TF125S combination, maybe you can use that as a starting point and work your way up (or down) the way JB suggests. You could also try to use a vibration dampner, which is probably a lot cheaper than any stringjob. 😉
JB says
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Michel try the new Ashaway ZX I have it in a Harrow Vibe not as stiff a racquet as your Vapor but a great string so far. Still fall back to my Vibe with 305 strung at 23.5 great feel and power. The ZX is heavier 17g than the 305 18g. I find the 305 strung over 27 is dead to me like a board so dropping down feels good. The ZX at 25 works well. Depending on what you normally string at and string might help understand what is going on. Try either the 305 low tension or the ZX around 25 I think you will like it. Enjoy the game!
Thomas Selway Spencer says
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Harrow vapor has a TIGHT string pattern that demands a low tension to be comfortable.
They used to come strung in supernick and from factory were very sweet to hit with.
My advice is to use supernick again (maybe zx), go for 23lbs, and insist that your stringer uses ‘lock-out’ setting on their machine (if it is an electronic one), which will prevent it from over-tension when doing the job.
directed with experience, Thomas.
Tjeerd Mäkel says
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I’d love to read other experiences too, JB! 😉
Haven’t seen that much multifilament strings thinner than 1.15mm…
michel goulche says
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thank you all for the infos, since i have 2 vapor i gonna string one with Kirschbaum @11kg main strings and 10kg cross strings, and the other one with Ashaway SuperNick Xl micro @ the same tension.
Tjeerd Mäkel says
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Past month I have tried two other strings. Here are my thoughts about them:
MSV Squash Soft Touch 1.20 (natural)
The construction of this string looks a lot like the Kirschbaum Touch Multifibre. The string is made of 1400+ nylon fibers that are twisted and bonded with PU. It feels equally stiff like the Kirschbaum Touch Multifibre, but the outer layer is less rough and feels a bit “wobbly”.
After 2 / 3 times of playing, the string will “settle” and soften up a bit more. After some more play, the strings will start to notch and fray, just a bit like the Tecnifibre 305. It’s easy to string, but you’ll have to carefully adjust your clamps; if they are too tight, it will – again like the TF 305 – “crack” inner PU resign.
This string will give you fantastic power and good control. It’s very resilent and comfortable, a good option if you suffer from arm / wrist / shoulder problems. Durability seems to be about average.
Great value for money. One of my favorites.
Toalson Asterisk 1.20 (orange / blue / green / white)
This is a nylon monofilament string, with a thin layer of outer filaments. I think this string can be categorized as a “synthetic gut”.
It’s “sellingpoint” is elasticity. And indeed, the string is elastic. But in my experience, I had to string at a 5 – 7% lower tension to get that elasticity working and get some “pop” off the strings. Once you got that “pop”, it’s actually very nice and comfortable to play with. The power of this string is just okay. If you are searching for a lively and “crisp” feel, you’d probably better skip this one. I can imagine that people who have tried this string, think it’s “boring” or “dull”. But this string is probably everything about comfort and control.
Off the reel, it felt like the string was coated with some sort of teflon spray; probably added for easier stringing. Anyway, I didn’t like it and before stringing, I cleaned the piece of string with a wet microfibre cloth. And even when cleaned, it is very easy to string with due to its smooth surface.
Conclusion: good and affordable string with good durability and a very comfortable soft feel.
JB says
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Tjeerd, just bought some of the new Tecnifibre Dnamx 18g and 17g and strung the 18g up in a Harrow Vibe. Really nice if you like soft strings. The closest to gut yet with better consistency. About to string up an Eye control 120 with it strings nicely also not much coil memory. I have tried a lot of different strings and I seem to always go back to 305, so far the Dnamx has the nice consistency of the 305 for great rails, softer feel, more power and about the same bite and spin availability. At low tensions, like the 305 it springs back to it’s starting position each time, you can hear the strings moving around when you cut the ball but they spring right back in place. Nice string. Enjoy the game!
JB says
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String is the second most important piece of equipment right behind shoes! Well I am fortunate to have a stringer so have tried a bunch. I have 3 of the same racquets and rotate strings keeping the one racquet with the best playing string in it cut out the other two and restring…. What I have found is not only string is important but the tension, and certain strings play better at certain tensions…any way just my findings and thoughts take with a grain of salt I am not a pro far from it…strings to try Tecnifibre 305 for a good all-a round, does all things good, seems to have the right amount of stick or slick to run the rails nicely, natural gut there is good stuff and some garbage one from the west coast poor quality, I bought 5 packs it is stiff as a board and fragile was told it is not for squash…after I bought it he told me….well good natural gut is great all a rounder great spin, touch and power and easy on the arm. Tecnifibre 305+ good power nice touch but not as much spin as can be produced from the n gut and 305. Gamma Tour Elite really nice great smooth power and touch okay spin but can move around until broken it and seated…Tecnifibre x-one close to gut without as much spin producing. Ashaway makes some good string they just seem to loose there pop to soon? Great spin and control not as powerful as the Tecnifibre or Gamma. RAB Sensorfibre great string if you like the thick stuff 17L is the thinnest they make but like the 305 with a bit more pop gauge to gauge but drop to the 305 18 and you get more pop less longevity but nice all a rounder. Tried many other brands but none are jumping out to me right now as bettering the above mentioned. I have found that the frames as long as it is what you like balance wise and weight if you put your preferred string tensioned to your liking a racquet is a racquet…my above thoughts are just that and please don’t take my word seriously experiment it will really open up another part of your game…once you find your tension and string, enjoy the game!!!
Troy says
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Thank you for such an informative write-up. As I’ve just purchased a second/back-up racquet I’m also keen to trial other strings. So far I’ve played with the HEAD Perfect Power 17G which was very powerful with plenty of touch and control, although the durability was shocking. I’ve since switched to the Technifibre DNAMX and 305+ 17G (either/or don’t mind) and have really enjoyed them for durability and power, but I want a little bit more in the way of control and spin. On my list, I intend to try the Technifibre 305 17G, Ashaway SuperNick ZX Micro 18G, and Gamma Tour Elite 17G (I was very pleased to see your mini-review on the Gamma as I was contemplating them). I currently run a tension of approximately 27 – 28 lb on my HEAD Graphene Cyano 135 (teardrop shape). Would you recommend similar tensions with those mentioned above, or do they warrant change? Also I’m curious if you’ve experimented by reducing your cross strings by 1 – 2 lbs (compared to your mains). Cheers! Troy.
JB says
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Troy I think you are on the right track with the 305 just bump up the tension. A friend I string for goes for 31 I am at 30 and the control is good and both don’t feel we lost any power we are both big hitters. You know thought of changing up tensions on the crosses and mains but haven’t. On his Prince that would be easy as I string the mains, tie off then the crosses. Have you tried it? For the ultimate control and touch Ashaway Ultra nick but the power really falls away.
Enjoy the Game!
Brent says
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Has anyone tried Eye’s string?
I’m about due for a restring and was wondering if it was worth a try compared to 305. I see on their webpage that the different colors are supposed to have different playing characteristics.
Pierre Bastien says
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Hi Brent, I’ve played with the X.Tech 1.20 (green) and liked it. Eye says it’s a similar multifilament construction to the Tecnifibre 305. I admittedly don’t have the most sophisticated palette when it comes to strings, but I thought the Eye strings did feel similar to Tecnifibre 305, which I have tried previously (1.1 gauge though).
Carlos Porras says
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The owner of the squash store where I buy my rackets is a former spanish champion of racketball and top 10 of squash in Spain, and he told me that he uses the eye’s strings. He, as Pierre, said that is quite similar to 305.
JB says
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Pierre is exactly correct experiment…. There are a lot of good ones out there. Depending on what you are looking for from a string power, cotrol, a combination of both…will help you narrow your choice, then once you settle on one experiment on tension. You will not believe what it can do for your game and confidence using the right string at your tension. There is the popular string by Tecnifibre and Ashaway but don’t hesitate to try some not so popular brands Gamma Tour Elite and RAB Sensor Fibre are two that play great. Another to try is natural gut but be careful which you get there are some poor stiff stuff out there and ask before you buy if it is approved for squash naturalgutwholesale.com for example says (after you buy it) not approved for squash. Enjoy the game!!
Akshay Rajkumar says
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I have a Head Graphene Cyano 115 squash racquet. It is nearly 3 months old. I play 4-5 times a week for an hour. Over the last two weeks, I have noticed that I need to readjust my strings quite often during gameplay—something I rarely had to do earlier. I have been considering restringing my racquet but I’m concerned it will affect the balance and performance. What strings are best for this racquet and are there any instructions I should give to the person restringing them so I have the same quality as earlier?
Pierre Bastien says
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Hi Ashkay, yes strings do lose their tension over time, which could explain the need for readjustment. Strings are a very subjective matter so it’s hard to recommend one “best” string. I would go into it with the mindset of experimenting to see what you prefer in terms of string and tension.
Thomas Selway Spencer says
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Hi There,
Cyano Rackets can Be Very Temperamental to string setup changes.
Basically, it can be hard to get the factory feel in a restring as the string they use in them at factory changes frequently.
However, what I can tell you is that they should be strung in a TWO PIECE setup, with the mains running about 3 lbs higher than the crosses.
For instance, if you were guiding for a 27lb job; consider the mains to be done at 28.5lb and the crosses back down at 25lbs.
If you ar using powernick or ultranick, remember to lower the target tension by about 2.5lbs also.
do not use a thin guage string or supernick xl, as the open strign pattern of the cyano will EAT these strings up in no time.
If you want comfort and durabity, consider new luxilon pro shot rough at 25/22
If you want control of pace and spin/cut try 305 classic at 28.5/25
or you could try the new Supernick ZX at 27/24, I have some recently happy customers with this new orange string with a small reduction in tension.
(all figures in above paragraph guide to a 27lb target)
JB says
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Great advice Thomas throwing out an observation on the new Ashaway ZX or for that matter any of the Ashaway Powernicks or other Ashaways they tend to also move around which all string does but it does not go or pop back in place. So if it bothers you that it doesn’t go back in place on its own then be aware the Ashaway seems to move then stay there instead of popping back in place like a Tecnifibre and others. Now heard many say if it is out of place or not makes no difference in how the ball reacts off it. Me bothers me how I see it if it is out of position then that string is at a higher tension then when it is in position as it is now covering a longer path at the same two attach points so has to be a higher tension it is being stretched. So what I have found in a Harrow Vibe is the ZX moves around as all string does but does not pop back to its original position on its own strung at 26 lbs or below. At 27 and higher seems to pop back in place on its own. On a Head XT Slimbody same thing. With Tecnifibre 305 or 305+ it pops back in place most of the time down to 21 just strung one up at 17 to see how it reacts that low. Again does it really make tha much of a difference that the string is not in the original position……………..does the ball change characteristics during the game as it heats up or cools down………Enjoy the game!
Lawrence says
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Hi JB
Would like to know your experience on the Slimbody with 17lbs tension (!!!???)… How was it?